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The #1 Daiquiri
Monday Dec 04, 2006.
By Dana Kavan
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 photo: Dana Kavan The damage: $9 per drink—a bit pricey for sure, but it's no Island Oasis machine mix with well rum. Thousands of bars in Chicago, why this one? I've never met a professional taco taster. In fact, I may have just coined my dream job. If that's the case, I want to know who assigns the city's taco/burrito places their claims to fame, because every place seems to have one—"Burritos as big as your head," "#1 tacos in Chicago." These promises don't give the consumer much guidance to pick between a Taco Burrito King, House or Palace all within three blocks. De Cero, on the other hand, bills itself as a modern-day taqueria with upscale Mexican food and inspiring tacos. It won't paraphrase nicely for a neon exterior sign, but this claim was enough to get me on a bus headed for the West Loop. How it went down: Having to pick only one of De Cero's 11 specialty fruit and herb drinks is as cruel as having to take sides on guacamole or sour cream. With guava, hibiscus and tamarind among the choices, I tackled the menu by narrowing my options. Ever since I almost missed my college graduation because I decided, I think, to toss back a shot of Cuervo for every class I took over the years, I've always approached tequila with caution. With tequila out, only two rum-based drinks, including the raspberry basil daiquiri, remained. Basil never disappoints on pizza or in pasta, but I thought its clove-like flavor would overwhelm the raspberries and rum. Thankfully, De Cero's daiquiri has perfect portions. While my friend Jen sipped her passion fruit margarita with ease, I sucked on my straw to get the thick mix through. It was so fabulously berry-potent that the blender must have brimmed with raspberries. The Cuban-style dark rum mellowed out the tartness of the fresh berries and the musky basil leaves balanced out the sweetness of the rum. The three flavors made for a refreshing marriage in my oversized goblet. Would I want to become a regular? Just as De Cero's drinks outdo the average taqueria's refrigerated case of Jarritos and Coke, its decor and food are equally impressive. Instead of fluorescent lighting and plastic booths, De Cero's urban professional crowd sits on rustic wood tables lit by candles and recessed lighted shining through wooden slats on the ceiling. Jen has been known to down tacos the way competitive eaters inhale hot dogs, so we picked the eight-taco platter to share. I may not be a professional taco taster (yet) but the rich braised duck taco topped with sweet corn salsa has to earn De Cero the first Chicagoland taqueria slogan to include the word "mallard." Now that says something. Dana Kavan scours the city for drink deals so good you'll offer to buy a round and creative libations that outshine your average on-the-rocks concoctions. Want to give Dana tips on where to rack up a bar tab? Share your finds before her next night out.
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