Found at the end of a corridor connected to Evanston's most pair-adamant wine bar (Stained Glass), the Cellar is not a showing off of owners Victoria Ponseca and Victor Hernandez's vintage goods. It's more a rumpus room with panache, stocked with a near 30-bottle selection of craft brews, dotted from Belgium to California, and a bar to rest them on.

There are no taps and no loud music; instead, a Sirius blend of smooth jazz commands the show. And it's not all about beer, either, with two dozen of Stained Glass' 250 wine bottles on offer.

But most of what it is or isn't ceases to matter as an all-star line-up of "worldwide" midsize plates from short-rib jibaritos to buckets of free-range chicken roll out until midnight.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul