Overcome your fear of themed restaurants (we all have stories about that one terrifying time at Chuck E. Cheese) and step into the Firehouse Grill—a neighborhood hotspot (no pun intended) tailor-made for toasts and belly laughs. The restored fire station is like a museum of tradition and kitsch: walls are plastered with portraits of firefighters; two brass fire poles shoot down from the ceiling like skinny bookends for booth seating; and the former firehouse doors are converted into floor-to-ceiling windows looking out into the street. Dim lighting makes the restaurant feel cozy and the wait staff is acceptably chummy.

Patrons flock to its full bar, which runs the length of the restaurant; apparently no one is disturbed by tipping the bartender under murals of elaborately painted scenes of towns and forests catching fire. Follow vintage photographs of old fire engines up the stairs to the Chief's Room, a second-floor party/ game room with its own full bar. Three TVs, three pool tables, pinball and Pac Man machines provide entertainment until your stomach starts to grumble.

Sandwiches and burgers stand in the spotlight here: Try the Honeymooner, sliced turkey breast, mozzarella and bacon with honey mustard sauce ($8.95) or the half-pound Firehouse Burger ($7.95). Classic Firehouse Chili (meaty or vegetarian) sounds satisfying on its own, but is swoon-worthy over mac and cheese ($7.50).

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Puhala