Chef Christophe David grew up working the lines at French palaces of cuisine like Taillevent and Lucas Carton, and now he's brought that excellence to Chicago. True to form he's serving up heart-stopping risottos dripping in mascarpone, cream and truffle oil and crispy halibut with Yukon Gold potato puree. But if you like it light, the sushi service, which features fresh-grated wasabi root, is one of the city's best. Even NoMi's full-service holds up the highest standards, using only fresh-squeezed juices in its mixed drinks.

David cooks seasonally, and in the summer, he offers a frothy cold watermelon soup perfumed with the star anise, micro basil, dots of vanilla and a swirl of Banyuls vinegar that mimics the amber and gold tendrils of the Dale Chihuly glass sculptures hanging overhead. Sipping the soup, topped with a crusty crouton plank dotted with chopped lobster, is like crunching on melon in the middle of a spice plantation. It's truly one of the great dishes of Chicago. Rich or light, meals are finished off with dainty migniardise of chartreuse petit fours and chocolate fudge flecked with gold leaf. Appetizers range $4-$21, entrees $36-$42.

Like the food, the dining room is grand: Glass sculptures deck the high ceilings and a famous cantilevered window overlooks Michigan Avenue.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant