If not for the zimne piwo (cold beer) sign underneath the standard Old Style bar marquee, you might miss Ola's Liquors altogether. A bashful Polish canteen in Ukrainian Village, Ola's is an old-world dive bar resistant to time and gentrification. Giant, inflatable Miller Lite basketballs hang from the ceiling, and for a mere $8, you can throw back a pitcher of Old Style or PBR—the only two beers on tap.

The barstools, which look like they're straight out of a ‘70s-era McDonald's, offer the best view of Ola's arsenal of liquors (not to mention the dashing framed portrait of JFK). Try the Zubrowka Vodka, which is infused with bison grass (a known aphrodisiac) native to Poland's Bialowieza forest. Perfect with apple juice, the slightly sweet spirit is a Polish favorite. Ola's also has $1 shots of Schnapps and a decent selection of bottled domestic and imported beers, including Zywiec (zhiv-ee-ets), a crisp Polish lager.

Ola's jukebox provides the only non-alcoholic entertainment, unless you count amusing anecdotes shared by local patrons about stock tips, cocktail napkin caricatures and the latest Desperate Housewives episode. The drinks are always cheap, and the fun starts as early as 7 a.m.

Centerstage Reviewer: Anna Pulley