While today's Devon is known for its Indian restaurants and cultural centers, years ago it was an area dominated by Eastern European Jews. Step just a few feet west of California Avenue (most of the Indian eateries sit east of the street) and find the remnants of that Jewish population thriving on a fragment of their old stomping ground.

The site of Good Morgan Fish has been a kosher fish market for more than 40 years and retains the neighborhood charm that you'd hope to find in such a place. Owner Aaron Morgan says he goes through 1,000 pounds of whitefish in a slow week, selling bulk fried and grilled whitefish, fried whitefish sandwiches, whitefish salad and whole fresh whitefish. The menu also includes trout, chub, cod and salmon. The smell of fish can become overwhelming for the squeamish, and be prepared for entire fish to stare you in the eye as if they're begging you, "Don't eat me, don't eat me, oh, please don't eat me.

The white and blue tiled walls pay tribute to the colors of the Israeli flag and are dotted with Hebrew prayers. Take note of the sign that reads, "Make a friend. Share a table during busy hours;" Good Morgan's handful of tables fill up quickly on busy days.

Centerstage Reviewer: Laura Brown