The Quincy stop was restored in 1999, but the original canopy and railing from 1897 are still intact. Designed by A.M. Hedley, it's one of the more classic-looking stops in the Loop. The Corinthian pilasters and window surrounds done in the Baroque style probably go unnoticed by the hundreds of busy commuters that file in and out of the station on their way to work. And with all kinds of crazy commerce in the area, shoe-gazers and tourists would do well to use some degree of caution when moving along the intrepid sidewalks.
Safety rating: Usual Loop guidelines apply: safe during the day, a little sketchy at night.
Panhandler rating: Some are eloquent and forceful. When in doubt, just say no.
In-the-know spot
Cal's Liquors
As a general rule, liquor stores with bars attached to them are seedy places. Such hovels usually stock the cheapest booze for a rough clientele, grizzled drunks who lurk from sun-up to closing time and then stagger out with a six-pack. This general rule does not apply to Cal's, a warm and inviting liquor store/bar. Cal, a gruff looking fellow with a thick, gray, old-timey moustache will likely be there, should you stop by. He seems to have quite a harem of regular customers, too. One out-of-breath guy burst in and gasped, "Cal, you wouldn't happen to have any plastic shot glasses, would ya?" Cal let out an ambiguous grunt. The small bar to the rear of the place boasts live music and, perplexingly, wireless Internet access. The liquor store is open 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Friday. The bar's hours are subject to change, so a quick call ahead is advised.
Cheap eats
Luke's Italian Homemade Beef
An interior wall at Luke's boasts one of the most frightening 3-D murals ever created: a black bull with a Luke's tattoo on his bicep, eating a plate of spaghetti off of a lounging cow's belly. Truly terrifying, but in Chicago, every conceivable oddity is overlooked in the name of a good Italian beef. There is a much less frightening mural of a giant Chicago dog, plausibly a reminder that Luke's serves those as well. Luke's Italian beef is the product of a famous recipe. The restaurant did win the Silver Platter award in 2000; if you can find out what that means exactly, then let me know. Luke's also serves pizza in pies or by the slice. None of the sandwiches are over $5, and 60 cents will get you a side of cheese sauce. Hot tip: On Friday only, you can treat yourself to a "Pepper and Egg Sandwich."
Dinner-date destination
Elephant and Castle
Something about this restaurant/pub makes it very cozy on freezing windy days. It is always warm, which helps, but the allure extends beyond the balmy temperature. The stained glass is inviting, as is the huge beer selection. Plus, though it's usually very crowded, the seating arrangement gives the tables a distinct intimacy. What's perhaps less inviting is that it's a franchise owned and operated by the same company responsible for Canada's Rainforest Cafes. Depressing, indeed, but Elephant and Castle has a quasi-authentic feel and some pretty good food: a stew made with Guinness-braised beef, for instance. There is a bright-red, British-style phone booth in front that hides behind a wind door in the winter.
No wallet required
Federal Reserve Bank of Chicago
There are 12 regional reserve banks across the U.S., which serve as both banks for bankers and as the government's bank. In 2003, Chicago's Federal Reserve bank received and counted more than $50 billion, and destroyed more than $7 billion in unfit currency. A walk through the visitors center of this large, heavily fortified building lets you see a giant rotating cube with $1 million inside, lets you try and spot counterfeit money and lets you follow the life cycle of a dollar bill. It's interactive and it's free. At 1 p.m. each weekday, there is a 45-minute guided tour of the visitor's center.
Place to chill
Sears Tower Skydeck
An elevator ride for a mere $11.95! On the north end of downtown, you can take a free ride to the 96th floor of the Hancock building and spend your ten dollars on a fancy martini, but at 1,353 feet up, the Skydeck of Chicago's signature tower has the better view of the city. On a clear day you can supposedly see Michigan, Indiana, Illinois and Wisconsin. There are interactive learning exhibits, high-powered telescopes and binoculars and multi-lingual interactive kiosks. The Sears Tower was built in the "mega-module" system, so with its multiple tiers, it looks like a few buildings smelted into one. It weighs more than 200,000 tons and has almost 4 million square feet of rent-able space. This is scary, but the average sway of the Sears Tower is 6 inches. The building blows in the wind!
Place to be seen solo
W Hotel
The lobby of this uber-swank hotel feels like a dead nightclub. It's dim, there are velvet couches and burning candles, and all kinds of hyper light activity is projected onto the walls. The few people lazing about look like transplants from Versace ads. There is a small bar to the right, and a sterile-looking boutique at the rear. Adjacent is "ristorante we," serving Northern Italian cuisine. The trick to hanging out in the lobbies of fancy hotels is to look bored. If you look enamored by the chic rugs and engraved ceilings, somebody is going to ask if they can help you. But if you can appear to be truly under-whelmed, a couple of hours can be whiled away in unfettered opulence. And you can use the nice clean restrooms, as opposed to waiting in line to use the filthy can at Starbucks.
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