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Grand (Blue)

Italian spots beckon the young and old.

Tuesday Apr 19, 2005.     By Aimee Hall

Lifestyle Feed

The area around the Grand Blue Line stop is eclectic to say the least. The six-corner intersection of Grand, Milwaukee and Halsted is home to an Irish pub (Emmett's), a zen-themed dance club (Funky Buddha) and a three-star restaurant (Thyme). But venture further west on Grand, and you'll find yourself in the heart of the Italian "old neighborhood." The mixture of towering condos and old world charm typifies the old-meets-new vibe found around here.

Panhandler rating: Zero. The place is deserted, with nary a panhandler in sight.

Safety rating: The area looks scarier than it is. Though there isn't a lot of pedestrian traffic, the nearby expressway means there are always plenty of cars around.

Dinner-date destination
Misto
Located in the heart of a very Italian stretch of Grand Avenue, Misto serves Italian-American cuisine with a twist of French. Not your average spaghetti and meatballs restaurant, the menu overflows with creative seafood dishes; land-locked diners who are suspicious of Midwestern fish have plenty to choose from as well. The entrees are reasonably priced, in the $12-$16 range for pasta, $15-$23 for meat and seafood dishes. Stylishly decorated, the dining room is quiet enough for casual conversation, but lively enough to keep it interesting.

Misto is open for lunch (Monday through Friday only) and dinner, but you don't have to worry if you get a late start. The kitchen is open until 10 p.m. during the week, and it feeds hungry diners until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. Not hungry? Not a problem. Order a martini or a glass of wine in the bar area and enjoy the relaxed lounge vibe. Patrons here have been known to stick around for hours, savoring the evening in true Italian style.

The night to be here is Saturday, when owner/chef Donny Greco performs his "Saturday Night Cabaret," a fun, if somewhat cheesy selection of his favorite Rat Pack hits belted out the way only a guy named Donny Greco can. The entertainment starts at 9:30 p.m. and runs until 12:30 a.m. In warm weather, several sidewalk tables are available for diners who don't mind being a little further from the action.

Arena for the a.m.
Buongiorno Cafe
Morning commuters will be happy to know that Buongiorno Cafe opens at 6:30 a.m., with a breakfast menu that includes quick fixes like croissants and muffins, as well as more elaborate fare including a variety of frittatas and breakfast sandwiches. Of course, a cafe is not a cafe without coffee, and this one does not disappoint. The bar in the back serves espresso, cappuccino and lattes, as well as a complete selection of beer, wine and spirits for diners later in the day.

Paninis are the lunchtime staple, the majority of which are available in any of four variations: Puccia, on a hollowed-out loaf of artisan bread; Focaccia, on pizza bread; Pressini, on flat bread and pressed on a grill-press; or Tradizionale, on basil French bread. The pizza selection features traditional Roman-style pizzas, with thin, crispy crusts and very little sauce. Exotic toppings such as prosciutto (thinly sliced Italian ham), artichoke hearts and Genoa tuna will impress the adventurous, while pepperoni and sausage will satisfy simpler tastes.

Open for the early dinner crowd as well, Buongiorno's hours are expected to expand in early November, with delivery service expected around the same time. Since nothing beats casual like your own living room, you can order anything from the menu for carry-out. With the average entree costing less than $10, a meal here will cost you significantly less than a trip to Italy.

Where to chill
Cafe Fresco
In a neighborhood known for its restaurants, not its nightlife, Cafe Fresco is one of a handful of places that stays open until 2 a.m. The clientele consists mostly of locals and after-dinner drinkers who aren't quite ready to go home. The menu is eclectic, with the typical bar offerings plus a few imaginative Italian entrees. The nautical-themed decor may bring to mind grizzled sailors and bad-tempered fishermen, but the bartenders are friendly and attentive.

A couple of tables are set up on the sidewalk in front of the building, but the outdoor wine garden in the back is the best thing about Cafe Fresco. It's a diamond in the rough: Plenty of plants and murals disguise the fact that you're actually sitting in an alley. The tables fill up quickly on nice nights, but if you're lucky enough to get a seat, you'll want to grab a glass of wine (it's half-price on Tuesdays) and relax under the stars.

In the know spot
D'Amato's Bakery
The corner of Grand and May is home to the original D'Amato's Bakery, which has been holding court for more than 30 years. Most of D'Amato's customers are Chicago restaurants, who buy their bread here at wholesale. However, neighborhood residents stop by the corner shop to stock up on the best fresh bread in town. Get here early for the best selection; pick up a loaf of crusty bread or a slice of pizza. D'Amato's doesn't do much in the way of cakes, but the cannollis will more than satisfy your sweet tooth.