It's impossible to mention Ann Sather without the conversation immediately turning to the restaurant's cinnamon rolls. As big as a fist, fluffy and dripping with thick sugary icing, the cinnamon rolls are hard to resist even when you're ordering a bready breakfast that's mouth-watering in is own right, like pecan French toast with hazelnut cream. But to resist the cinnamon rolls when you're ordering eggs is near impossible: Each egg entree comes with two sides, and—in a mind-boggling kitchen calculation—two jumbo sweet rolls count for a single side.

Of course, it makes sense that many of the baked goods here have reached a state of near-perfection; the kitchens of Ann Sather have been perfecting and serving them up since 1945, when Ann Sather opened her first eponymous Swedish restaurant on Belmont Avenue. This Andersonville location has long been a neighborhood favorite, meaning peak brunch hours can demand a bit of patience (though free coffee and pastry samples remind grumpy diners near the door that the wait is worth it).

For breakfast, check out the impressive eggs benedict offerings, including vegetarian tomato and watercress, crab cake, steak tenderloin, turkey, salmon, traditional and Florentine. There's also a slew of wraps, omelets, pancakes and waffles to be had, with well-executed standards sharing the stage with knock-your-socks-off Swedish renditions, such as the Swedish pancakes and meatballs or the Swedish potato sausage.

Though the restaurant is mainly a breakfast/brunch hot spot, it does serve a satisfying lunch, starting at 11 a.m., with choices ranging from a quarter-duck with lingonberry glaze to a made-to-order egg salad sandwich. Breakfast options average $7-$9; lunch options average $7-$13.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Rockwood