aria's tag line says it all: "Culturally inspired. Comfortably American." Translation: this restaurant offers trendy world cuisine that incorporates but softens the flavors and techniques of a multitude of cuisines. Though aria is located in the Fairmont Hotel, it's best to dissociate it from its location: Sure, it's excellent for travelers, but Chicagoans would do well to reserve a table here for special occassions.

The bread basket gets the meal off to a superb start: hot, homemade naan sided by four delicious dipping sauces. When you embark on your "culinary journey" through the menu, do start with the hot & sour baked rock shrimp, a specialty ($16). You'll also find Thai basil shrimp, Vietnamese pho and a Shaghai spinach salad with edamame and enoki mushrooms. Entrees ($21-$48) run the gamut from chestnut-crusted fillet of halibut to Moroccan-spiced free-range chicken breast.

The desserts are extraordinary, particularly the Chocolate Origins (three course of chocolate from Madagascar, Venezuala and Ecuador) and the Thai lemongrass creme brulee.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz