Scents of freshly fried chicken and sweet apple cobbler permeate a stretch of 75th Street. An aged neon sign and slow moving, satiated families exiting the lone door of an inconspicuous brick building indicate the source: Army and Lou's, the South Side bastion of soul food.

The creation of a Defender reporter and his wife in 1945, the restaurant has seen the likes of politicians, suburbanites, local community dwellers and third-generation patrons flock to its doors in search of Southern-style "scratch cooking." Former mayor Harold Washington held weekly meetings here in a room now used for buffets and private parties. Gubernatorial candidates make pre-election stops for press junkets while they dine on center-cut pork chops, whole Cornish hens and baby back ribs.

A throwback to the '40s, the main dining rooms don dusty salmon walls, lightly worn gray booths and tables with paper napkin roll-ups and roses. African-American art, chosen by a frame shop owner across the street, adds a modern flair. Stained-glass windows and a church pew at the entrance allude to the brunch buffet crowd on the first Sunday of each month, when $16.95 allows access to ridiculous amounts salmon croquettes, catfish steaks, baby beef liver and omelets.

If you're not much of a morning person, stop by on Friday nights for the weekly live jazz performances. Local trios and jam sessions create a lively atmosphere for diners looking for a few drinks and good music to complement their home cooked meals. Entrees cost $10-$20.

Centerstage Reviewer: Nola Akiwowo