It's a pastry-lover's dream game; the baked, breaded version of a trip to Willy Wonka's factory. Ready to play? Walk into the inconspicuous little storefront off the Red Line Sheridan stop, grab a tray and go! At Artemio's Bakery, a long-standing area institution, you just arm yourself with tongs and get to work choosing from shelf after shelf of mouth-watering confections and see how little you can spend. Atkins Diet followers may feel as if they've crossed the gates of hell, but to everyone else, it's simply heaven.

Packed as the place is with a vast assortment of irresistible temptations, a visit here becomes an exercise in restraint. You could just stop in for an inexpensive breakfast on the way to the L, or a pleasant dessert after dinner at one of the neighboring restaurants, or you could go for the much more fun option: stocking up on home-baked goodness that will last you at least a few days.

Picking out the right gems and jewels is strictly a matter of personal taste. Those with more than one sweet tooth can delight in cookies, cakes, donuts and the like. The more conservative can stick with rolls, muffins and biscuit-type breads. Instead of suffering through stale store-bought bread, buy a few loaves here to serve with dinner or to create the ultimate sandwich that everyone at the office will envy.

The best part of an Artemio's trip comes when you place your treasures on the cashier's counter. With most items averaging 50 cents, a single pastry or two will cost you mere pocket change, while bigger buys shouldn't be more than $10, unless you're feeding an army, stocking up for the winter or shooting for suicide by sugar shock.

Centerstage Reviewer: Paige Gray