An extraordinary dining experience awaits anyone willing to seek out this intimate French restaurant in Chicago's far north suburbs. Just a short walk from the Lake Forest Metra station, the Bistro has remained a close-kept secret since 1997.

The main dining room, which can seat 50 very nicely, is a warm, European-style eating area featuring an open view of chef John des Rosier's kitchen. Comfortable wicker chairs at wrought iron tables provide outdoor seating for 20 on the balcony.

Presentation excels at the bistro, and menus are redesigned each day to make every dining experience unique. Begin with a first course chosen from the "chilled," "heated" or "go-between" (a combination of chilled and heated ingredients) sections of the menu; flavorful choices include a Maine lobster spring roll with avocado, watercress, daikon and hot and sour sauce, and a belgium endive salad with hazelnuts, haricots verts, shallot vinaigrette and warm goat cheese.

The principal course may come from the land, the sea or again from the "go-between," featuring such dishes as Chesapeake Bay soft-shelled crab with rosemary pork confit, ginger carrot broth and fava beans ($25-$34). Those looking for an inspired meal can opt for a four-, six- or 10-course Tasting Menu for $48-$88 per person, with a selection of wines for an additional price.

The dessert menu features a very tasty toffee coffee creme brulee, a melt-in-your-mouth flourless chocolate cake in a cold chocolate soup, and a bing cherry mousse with a filo wafer, 40 vanilla bean ice cream and Grand Marnier sauce that will make you weep. Lunch is also served.

Centerstage Reviewer: Colin Douglas