If Chicago understands anything, it's that a fire has its silver lining. While the fire that burnt down Bella's original location on Chicago Avenue destroyed the entire building, it allowed them to open anew on Ashland while rebuilding the other location from the ground up. Unfortunately, that leaves this location as something of an afterthought in terms of aesthetic.

Two thin countertops facing the window and the wall make up the seating area. A stack of menus and the hot metal shelf for the pizzas are the only signs that food exists in the stark-walled room. In fact, the only two decorations in sight are the cardboard discs displaying the different pizza sizes (a small 10-inch thin-crust is just $7.75, while an 18-inch stuffed pie can cost $25 with a few toppings), and a paper sign taped to the back of the register stating "NO HAMBURGERS." Charming, it ain't.

The clientele are pretty single-minded about getting a slice of pizza, and since it's the only food in sight, it's hard to blame them. Yet a perusal of the menu will prompt a little wonder; in addition to the staple pizza, salads, and appetizers, Bella boasts an array of specialty sandwiches that imply some actual effort for just under $7 apiece. A Philly cheese steak croissant is equal parts peppery and greasy like a cheese steak should be. And a Chicken Vesuvio comes on foccacia bread that sops up the oil neatly—good thing the side pasta salad comes doused in its own serving. While the wait can occasionally be a drag, Bella's delivers, so save yourself a trip and order in to your much more attractive home. Night owls can take heart;the restaurant takes orders up until midnight on weeknights, and 1 on weekends.

Centerstage Reviewer: Dan Morgridge