Bennison's Bakery has been sweetening the scene in downtown Evanston since it first opened in 1938. There is nothing particularly hip about the place; if anything, its charm comes from its squareness.

The old-school cases and universally recognizable full-fat bakery smell will take you back to childhood memories of pleading with mom for an after-school treat. Purchased in 1975 by the Downer family, the bakery is something of a local institution, best known for its handcrafted artisan breads and European pastries. Second-generation owner and master baker Jory Downer garnered a truckload of praise and a big fat gold trophy for Bennison's when he served on the winning team of the 2005 Coupe Du Monde de la Boulangerie (World Cup of Baking), serving up prize-winning sweet breads and pastries in Paris.

These are the greatest draws at the bakery, which turns out a ton of French pastries, baguettes and croissants. All of the pastries cost less than $3, and the bread prices are just as reasonable. Other continental tasties include killer cannolis and delish German stollen at Christmas time, served up alongside holiday treats originating in France and Scandinavia.

The bakery also produces plenty of "Yankee" fare, including red velvet and birthday cakes slathered in buttercreme. These offerings are solid, but with so many international options and only so much belly capacity, it might be wiser to focus on the Euro offerings. The counter is staffed by a posse of charming if clueless high schoolers, but if you have questions they can't answer they will run back and grab a baker who knows their stuff.

Centerstage Reviewer: Roni Shapira