Chicagoan Johnny Phan had a coffee shop in mind when he took over this northwest storefront. It was his mother, an experienced professional cook, who persuaded him to expand the menu. The cheerful lunch-and-dinner BYO spot now boasts 107 authentic Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, prepared by Phan's mom and her staff in the kitchen.

Most popular here are the gargantuan bowls of steamy soup, from the sour canh chua to the rich, beefy pho. Vietnamese crepes made of egg, flour and coconut milk are packed with flavorful pork and shrimp. Specials include baby clams and buttery fried frog legs. With so many menu options, the delight is in the details: Rice noodles are delicately chewy and lightly sweet, veggies are crisp and fresh, and the sauces are distinctive without overwhelming. There are plenty of veggie and tofu options. Entrees average $8-$13; all portions are generous.

Round out your meal with the hefty beverage selection, from salted lemonade or Vietnamese sweet coffee to bubble-tea smoothies in flavors like lychee and honeydew. Carryout available.

Centerstage Reviewer: Julia Steinberger