If you thought Indian restaurants were the sole occupant of Devon Avenue, think again. Just east of the hustle and bustle of IndoPak-ville lies this eight-table Thai eatery. Paying sweet homage to its homeland, the windows are covered with mosquito netting and the robin's egg blue walls lend a swirl-through-the-clouds atmosphere.

Entire meals can be made from the ample First Bites portion of the menu. For an all-around tasty sampling, order the Blue Elephant appetizer platter. It's a healthy dose of deep-fried goodness, complete with shrimp dumplings, crispy egg rolls, golden crab creams (a fancy name for crab Rangoon) and spinach pot stickers. The tofu satay, cubed and smeared with homemade peanut sauce, is extra special as well.

Some of the house specials take on a French twist, like the quirky blackberry roasted duck with shitake mushrooms. Another pleasing main course is the Jungle Catfish, a praiseworthy take on a Thai favorite. Noodle and rice dishes occupy the rest of the extensive menu (try the crab meat fried rice), along with garlicky Thai mainstays along the lines of chicken teriyaki and Mongolian beef.

Finish up your feast with another swig from your BYOB bottle and a serving of the cherry sidelined Thai custard. Even though the dessert is frozen and then reheated in the microwave, the heavy coconut flavor is addictive. But the best part of the meal is when the check arrives. In addition to the fact that it shouldn't be too hefty (the menu's dishes top out at $12.95), you're presented with a refreshing piece of mint gum to tame your wild garlic breath.

Centerstage Reviewer: Misty Tosh