Wedged in between avenues Chicago and Grand, this gray brick shack has enough black steel bars on the windows and doors that it conjures more of a cell block, death row vibe than Italian beef dive. For those who like their beef gravy super seasoned, the notes of herby oregano and the sweet afterglow of garlic will rock your palate. Most beefs we've tasted are cooked through and seem like they've been floating in gravy and sitting in steam tables for a month of Sundays. Boston's beef, on the other hand, has a pinkish cast, and is much closer to a good Sunday roast with various shades of doneness.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant