This blink-and-you'll-miss-it corner eatery puts the emphasis squarely (or roundly?) on moderately priced rolls that taste like a million bucks. Though nigiri and sashimi are available upon request, it's maki that dominates.

Get tried-and-true basics, like California and tekka varieties, for four big ones. Creative assemblies bump up the bill to a still-reasonable $7-$11; sample a refreshing hint of waters more alluring than Lake Michigan with the Caribbean Secret, a mix of yellowtail, masago, gourd, asparagus, mango, mayo and tempura crumbs; and the O.C., with deep-fried crab meat, red leaf lettuce, masago, avocado, spicy sauce and orange ginger sauce.

Though maki is the main event, a variety of tempting salads, like the tuna avocado with creamy wasabi dressing, and appetizers, like the perfectly spiced gyoza, will goad you to stretch your meal into a multi-course event. Artful presentation (including truly funky chopsticks) makes Cafe Furaibo a wise choice for the relatively broke Tsunami and Sushi Wabi lovers of the world, as you'll soak up a keen sense of cool without throwing down much in the way of dollars and cents. (Dollar bowls of miso? Love it!)

Centerstage Reviewer: Zinny Fandel