It takes a moment for your eyes and nose to adjust to the air at Calvin's, partly because it's densely packed with the scent of smoked meat, partly because you'll be tearing at the deliciousness of it. I'm barely exaggerating when I say that despite its tiny size, you'll be able to catch the smell from a mile away.

Calvin Woods opened the original Smokin' Woody's on Lincoln, and saw such success that he, along with pal Ted Roombos, decided to open up a Logan Square spot. Good thing they did: The carry-out phone rings off the hook and the counter staff should be given gold stars for their swiftness.

Calvin's specialties include the pulled pork sandwich, served with coleslaw and a choice of fries, Calvin's special baked potato or potato salad ($6.25). Sweet potato fries are $1.50 extra, and they're worth every cent: The freshly sliced sweet potatoes are dunked in oil and fried to perfection, crispy on the outside, steaming and soft when you bite in. Another favorite, the rib tip platter, costs $9.75 for a large, and looks like it could feed a small family.

In perfect Southern style, the sides are bountiful. Try the collard greens cooked with smoked turkey (2.95), the crispy fried okra ($3.25) or the baked beans ($2).

Centerstage Reviewer: Emily Fiffer