For starters, the Ignotz staff brings warm bread, oil, cheese and baked garlic to your table. Talk about a way to jump-start your engine: This is it. The pre-dinner delights don't end there, though. A number of solid appetizers are available as well, including baked clams.

Chances are, affable owner Roger Wroblewski will stop by your table, say hello and make certain your chow is to your liking. The menu features pastas, a wide range of veal, steaks and melt-in-your-mouth good shrimp versace. Just be warned that the dishes come big: the pork chops vesuvio's menu listing cautions that it's two "large" chops seasoned with garlic; large is not a euphemism. For $14.50, you'll find yourself staring at a large amount of food with flavors so bold you'll have a hard time stopping at "too much."

Don't leave without asking for the dessert specials, featuring an assortment of items that will make the perfect bookend to your meal. Even more perfect, however, are the gargantuan chocolate-covered cherries that come plated with whipped cream for a sweet and complimentary finish.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Dennis Foley