Call it the gas station phenomenon, where one establishment opens on the same block as another. The counterintuitive rationale is that you go where the action is, heightening visibility and capitalizing on residual business from the existing establishments. And so it goes with Izumi Sushi.

It doesn't try to be flashy or attention-seeking; it quietly (and brilliantly) offers sake flights of four premium varietals each, in addition to saketinis. On weekdays between 5 and 9 p.m., most wine selections, martinis (of mostly fruity varieties, like lychee, pineapple and mango) and the house sake are half-priced; we got a respectable glass pinot noir, fragrant with sweet cherries, for four bucks.

Specialty maki rolls include inspired combinations like the Drunken, with tuna, salmon, yellowtail, real crabmeat, lettuce and masago drizzled with Thai spicy sauce; the Tiger, an unagi and tempura crumb roll wrapped with marinated shrimp, avocado, tobikko and wasabi mayo; and the Rainbow, a California roll wrapped with tuna, salmon, yellowtail, white fish, unagi, saba and ebi.

A sleek open sushi bar accomodates cozy neighborhood couples and hipster loners who nibble by the light up front, while two airy dining rooms lined with white banquettes are illuminated by chandeliers crafted from Japanese lanterns and lulled by ambient club beats. A flowing wall of water (Izumi is Japanese for "spring water") and antique kimonos adorning the walls soften the industrial-chic space.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jean Kwon