"Only a rooster can get a better piece of chicken than Jake's," crows a giant cartoon rooster painted on the windows of Jake's Pup in the Ruf. Other window paintings include Roger Rabbit, a dinosaur and a hamburger with legs. Jake's is visible from miles away. You just can't miss it.

Any greasy, fattening and/or fried food known to man can be found at Jake's—breakfast, lunch or dinner—although you may have to scan the entire restaurant to find it on the menu. Some of the offerings are written on the ceiling, some on the walls, and still others on a series of poster boards above the counter. From Italian beef to omelettes to wings to homemade donuts and pie, it's all here, and it is surprisingly tasty. The Italian beef in particular is a delight, though you might want to order it "light wet" so the bread doesn’t disintegrate in your hands. Broasted chicken is another specialty, involving a magical pressure cooking/deep-frying contraption that results in a greasy, crispy, delicious mess. Also, as expected, everything on the menu is ridiculously cheap.

The clientele here can be pretty seedy and sometimes smelly, but if you're not too squeamish, you'll find there's always something interesting going on (which shouldn't come as a surprise, given the giant fiberglass hot dog lounging on a fiberglass couch that sits on the restaurant's floor). Jake's is not a haven for the clean freak or those who prefer their restaurants gentrified. But if grittiness and cartoonishness is your favorite combination, you might just be delighted at what this place has to offer.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Eden Robins