Despite Kleo's boast that it has the city's best kebab, eating here won't exactly make you feel like you just washed up on the shores of the Mediterranean. But there's no need to get heartburn over any lack of authenticity. Instead, rejoice in the fact that Lakeview now has a lighter, non-taco-based late night food option.

That's not to say the food can only be eaten after a certain amount of alcohol consumption, although Kleo has obviously identified its niche. The joint stays open until a startling 5 a.m. on the weekend, and the room's minimal seating forms a perimeter around an expansive open area leading up to the counter where orders are placed.

So what of Kleo's kebab claim? Well, it may not be the best in the city, but it's a welcome surprise for those prejudiced by the bright orange room and blaring '80s pop on the radio. The pieces of chicken and pork are flavorful and tender, and the various options - skewered, in a pita and on a plate with fries - come with fresh vegetables and a creamy garlic sauce that, while a little too sweet, provides balance to the savory meat.

Other menu items journey even father from the Middle East, with panini, sausages, burgers and wraps filling out the options. Oft-neglected by the post-midnight eats circuit, vegetarians have several choices from the grill, including a veggie shish kebab, a grilled vegetable entree and a vegetarian wrap. If you're feeling particularly health-conscious, salads are also available. They've been assembled earlier, though the upside of that is that you can avoid the short wait for the hot food.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Alexander Hough