Good for when you're in the 'hood, but definitely not worth a trip otherwise, La Canasta serves up straightforward Mexican fare in Lincoln Park.

Featuring offerings like carne asada, enchilada and flautas, the menu includes all the staples you'd expect, with a few inventive dishes to boot. The stuffed avocado, grilled seafood or marinated Yucatan meats might break the tedium, but everything on the menu seems to be of rather lackluster quality. The average entree will set you back about $15; to get the most beans for your buck, try the combo plate, with green tomatillo rice, refried beans and a relatively fresh side salad. If you're a condiment junkie, you'll appreciate the fresh salsa, made with just the right amount of heat, and the good, if basic, guacamole. La Canasta has no trouble accommodating vegetarians—just make your herbivorous ways clear to your server. In general, the service here tends to lean on the inattentive side, so expect a bit of a wait. Like many sit-down, south-of-the-border establishments, this place overflows with loud, colorful art. If you score a table at the dramatic front window, you're also in for some prime people-watching on Webster Street.

For some, a plate full of enchiladas is merely a beard to mask the two-handed swilling of margaritas. If chasing down tomorrow morning's hangover is your goal, be forewarned: though stiff, the margarita here costs a whopping nine bucks, and that's for the well-tequila version. For these prices, you'd expect some Patron to be involved, but it all tastes the same after you throw back a few.

Centerstage Reviewer: K. Tighe