At first glance, the terra cotta walls and tiled floors of this South Loop eatery seem more closely akin to a Phoenix airport bar than a south-of-the-border cantina. Upon further inspection, it's apparent that the seemingly decorative relics are authentic and that the black-and-white photos lining the walls are actually gorgeous vignettes of Mexican life. A centrally located fireplace, wrought-iron wine gates and an open chicken rotisserie further validate the decor, while the flat-screen TVs and simple furnishings invite diners to make themselves at home.

If you're the kind that can't disassociate the quest for authentic Mexican food with the hunt for a perfect burrito, get over it. La Cantina's burritos leave a lot to be desired—namely um, flavor—but turning your eyes to the rest of the menu will bring great culinary satisfaction. Start with the fresh, house-made guacamole ($7), which can be ordered mild or spicy. If you're feeling a bit more decadent, try the Ceviche Limeno ($13), an inspired cocktail of tilapia, corn, garlic and onions seasoned perfectly with hot peppers and lime juice. As for entrees, anything that comes off of that rotisserie won't disappoint. Ditto for the luminously seasoned char-grilled steaks. For a lighter meal, try one of the many salads or the tilapia al mojo de ajo ($16), which swims in fresh garlic butter and cilantro.

It's not just the food that makes this South Loop charmer a favorite; the booze helps, too. Flavored margaritas, sangria and imported beer just scratch the surface. The dozens of tequilas and friendly bartenders willing to explain each one make La Cantina Grill a drinking destination. With regular drink specials and live music on the weekends, there are plenty of excuses to keep coming back until you've sampled every agave and mixto in the joint.

Centerstage Reviewer: K. Tighe