Starbucks pretends to have Italian roots by making its patrons feel stupid for ordering a large instead of a venti, but what’s Italian about a blueberry muffin and college student barista? At Lincoln Perk, the pastries and the owner call themselves Italian and rightfully so. A former pro-wrestler and filmmaker, owner Vito Brancato makes a point of distinguishing his shop from the coffee empire, flexing his movie-making muscles with a video on his website titled, “Starbucks? Fuggedaboudit!”

A collage of Brancato’s movie posters and news clippings share the wall space with posters honoring the Rat Pack. Round tables with iron-backed chairs you’d expect to find in a garden offer ample seating. A powder blue leather, one-sided booth and ‘60s-style, white leather armchair add a dash of retro to the room.

Perk brews Intelligentsia coffee and offers a full espresso drink menu. Prices are comparable to Brancato’s aforementioned nemesis; a large coffee costs $2 and espresso drinks range from $2.75-$4. For the ultimate caffeine boost, order a Tony Montana, house blend coffee mixed with two shots of espresso. Pair your drink with one of Mamma Brancato’s homemade Italian pastries; try the fig paste-filled lemon dough topped with icing. For a more substantial breakfast, opt for the Frittata Panini with eggs, potato and Pecorino Romano on grilled focaccia for $3.95. At lunchtime, Perk offers additional paninis and homemade minestrone soup, which, if you still haven’t drawn enough distinctions, far exceed Starbucks’ pre-made, vacuum-sealed sandwiches in quality and taste.

Centerstage Reviewer: Dana Kavan