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in Lakeview or Belmont on the Red line

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Melanthios Greek Char House

View Map3116 N. Broadway Ave., Chicago
Tel: (773) 360-8572
Fax: (773) 697-8374
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Editorial Review of Melanthios Greek Char House

The white-painted walls, tarnished roofing, veranda and stacked stoned veneer of Melanthios Greek Char House certainly brings a splash of the isles to Lakeview. Seasonings limited to Grecian cuisine and the southern Greek feng shui take visitors on a remarkable detour from the daily undertakings of local fast-paced life visible on the bumper-to-bumper strip.

The decor aims to recapture the town squares (platia in Greek) evergreen throughout the birthplace of democracy. Uncover chain-linked chandeliers over thick-wood floors and tables. Imported artifacts carefully mark a room of amber and blinding white walls. Festive draping and comfy throw pillows line sun-inviting windows. Exposed brick and ventilation bring to end the rustic lofty look.

Named after a disloyal character in Homer's epic "The Odyssey," the translation also equals black flower. As unfaithful as the inspiration may be, the menu never disappoints the range of guests (young couples, parties and an array of cultures) preferring simple attire despite its ceremonial presentation.

Make the most of your experience, beginning with a celebratory plate of flaming saganaki ($7). Afterward, server Chris Greening recommends anything from the lamb burger to the moussaka: layers of eggplant, potato and ground beef topped with a light bechamel sauce and baked ($12). He notes that the makaronada (Greek style pasta with a ground beef sauce topped with mytzithra cheese, $9.50) sells well also. Melanthios is BYO with a liquor license pending.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez

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11 a.m.-midnight Sunday-Thursday; 11-2 a.m. Friday-Saturday

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chicago, metromix