While "cactus paddle" sounds like a cruel instrument used in hazing rituals, it's actually the translated name of the top-notch Mexican restaurant, Los Napoles. The prickly delicacy is found in a few dishes on the menu, including the vegetarian tacos, but it's only one of the many quality ingredients at this family-friendly spot.

Any seafood lover will fall in love with the pan-fried Tilapia tacos topped with avocado. At only $1.65 a-piece, you'll be tempted to order a few, but save room for other savory options. Tender skirt steak wrapped in a thick corn tortilla and a layer of beans and cheese makes a mega-burrito that's bound to leave leftovers. The chef delicately arranges entrees like the Camerones al Chipotle ($12.95), shrimp sauteed in chipotle sauce and served with cactus salad, on plates covered in fluffy rice.

Though some of the entrees cost more than the average Mexican spot, the food far surpasses standard fare, and the BYOB policy makes up for the difference. The service is friendly and efficient, but this isn't a place to arrive in a hurry. Take a six-pack of Pacifico and delight in the three tomatillo-based salsas chockfull of cilantro or a heaping portion of fresh guacamole while you wait.

Los Napoles' ambience manages to feel festive while remaining tasteful. Mustard-colored walls and antique-looking black chandeliers lend a modern ethnic touch. A cabana hut adorned with chili pepper lights belongs on a beach in Cozumel, but it suits the Lincoln Square locals, young families and lifelong Chicagoans waiting for a table on a busy weekend night. If you get there after the dinner rush, score a table in front of the window overlooking busy Western Avenue. After dinner, plentiful bars await just blocks away, but you'll have to get your fill of cactus at dinnertime.

Centerstage Reviewer: Dana Kavan