If this Little Village location of Nuevo Leon was a Baldwin brother, it would likely be the scruffy and less polished Stephen. That's not to say it's not a fine Mexican spot, but it just lacks the flash of its older flashier genteel brother, the 18th Street location
(the Alec Baldwin of Nuevo Leons). While on 18th Street, you get comfy booths and plenty of hyper-color murals; this spot is a bit drab and full of wicker chairs.
That being said, the menus at both are pretty similar and represent a hybrid of regional north Mexico and Tex-Mex, featuring spot on fajitas, burritos, and tacos. Though this spot is safe for tourists, there’s plenty of indigenous regional depth like earthy red mole sauce that will sate the hardest core foodies.
The greatest highlight here, though, is the fresh corn tortillas. Griddled balls of raw masa waft a corn perfume that permeates the dining room.
Average cost: $10-$20
Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant