Leave the fur at home. Owners David and Holly Reynolds' idea for Quince was to create a spot that dished meals of the highest quality without all the frills and price tags usually associated with fine dining. The Reynolds, who own the quaint Homestead Hotel itself, put their idea into motion in December 2006. And while the price tags aren't astoundingly humble, the mouth-watering menu has diners raving that it's worth every penny.

Taking over the home of Evanston dining legend Trio, Quince helped to fill those tough shoes by retaining Trio's general manager and wine director, Joe Ziomek, and keeping Trio owner Henry Adinaya on board as a consultant. The wine list (a tribute to Ziomek's expertise) is in a league of its own, with more than 150 selections to complement your meal.

As for that meal, chef Mark Hannon prides himself on creating comfortingly familiar dishes with a twist. A honey lavender glaze tops pork tenderloin, the basic tartar sauce joins with a walnut emulsion on the whitefish and a roasted duck breast is sweetened, not with plums, but poached pears and a sweet and sour glaze. Homegrown comfort food takes shape in delights such as New England clam chowder, braised short ribs and a "cider and doughnuts" dessert. Appetizers cost $8-$18; entrees run $16-$23.

So if the inspiration for an elegant meal strikes, but you're not quite ready to change out of your jeans, Quince is the place for you. There's also a yummy brunch menu served on Sunday and a $30 prix-fixe, three-course option offered Tuesday through Thursday.

Centerstage Reviewer: Emily Browne