As a North Shore native, Ron of Japan holds a special place in my heart—its sizzling steaks, chicken and shrimp tempura, all topped with a dollop of cholesterol-laden egg sauce provided years' worth of feasts for birthday parties, graduation celebrations and anniversaries. And while I have come to realize that Ron's isn't quite the "authentic" Japanese experience I once imagined, the restaurant warrants a trip to the 'burbs whenever I get the chance.

The strong wooden doors open into an expansive lobby, decorated with foliage and koi ponds…bring a pocket full of pennies to throw in the pond while you wait for your table. A traditional seating area near the front of the restaurant features low-to-the-ground tables, where you can slip off your shoes and enjoy a cup of tea. Follow the smell of flaming food down the stone path, dotted with bridges, to the dining area. Seating is communal, so unless you come with a large party, get ready to make friends with the other couples sitting beside you. The table features a large grill-top, where chefs slice, dice and sauté your meal over an open fire as kimono-clad waitresses deliver a steady stream of potent mai tais.

The eats here are plentiful and filling, a good thing because meals cost a pretty penny. Order one of the Crown specials, with your choice of tofu, shrimp, beef (including Kobe) or chicken along with soup, a green salad with the a tangy sweet dressing, veggies, rice and dessert. For those who prefer surf n' turf, Shogun Dinners combine lobster with either a filet or prime rib and all the goodies you get with the Crown meal ($58). Come for your birthday and Ron finishes the meal with a bang, sending a sparklers and mini umbrella-dressed pineapple boat straight to your table and a live rendition of "Happy Birthday" in Japanese.

Centerstage Reviewer: Eve Ardell