Be prepared to shade your eyes: Blue and yellow walls adorned with fake fruit and vegetables and white and pink tablecloths set the scene at Salpicon. It's an all-out fiesta: The small space is usually filled to capacity (so having a reservation is highly recommended) and lively Latin music plays in the background.

Margaritas, Mexican beers, wine and tequilas are poured with a heavy hand at the horseshoe-shaped bar, where patrons (who didn't take the advice to make a reservation) sit sipping while they wait for a table. Appetizer options including tamales, guacamole and blue marlin ceviche will keep you from falling off your chair.

Unless you're fluent in Spanish, bring your reading glasses: The menu lists dishes in Spanish along with a paragraph-long description in English description. Once you've translated the entrees, choose from the likes of stuffed poblano peppers and grilled tiger shrimp in a sweet garlic and olive oil sauce with avocado chunks and guajillo chiles. Meat lovers are in for a treat; dishes like the double-cut pork chop in an Oaxacan chile ancho mole are served by the slab. Squeezing in dessert is a feat—the portions are enormous—but if you're up to the task, try the pastel tres leches, a milk-soaked cake with whipped cream and raspberry and mango sauces.

Sundays at Salpicon mean having mimosas and tequila sunrises along with your omelet or huevos rancheros, eggs served in a spicy tomato sauce with black beans and onion and Serrano chiles.

Centerstage Reviewer: Albrey Nuss