What would Greek Town be without a little Japanese? For two years and running, owner/head chef, Jay Min and his wife have offered sushi-based cuisine with the intention of building somewhat of a West Loop-following that stresses "healthy customer relationships," says Min. Yes, an obvious entrepreneur credo, but when confronted with the restaurant's subtle touches of elegance at such a moderate price (the average meal will run you roughly $20) one can easily validate its truth.

First and foremost, the place is impeccably clean: redwood-replica furnished; warm, solid multicolored walls; jet-black sushi bar in a semi-circle layout; and sharp all-black uniforms. Before accepting orders a customary hot towel is given. Table service mixes sleek, oversize porcelain dishes with on-the-spot alcohol pours. And come bill time, whether dessert is ordered or not, an expertly carved orange is sliced and diced in such a way so that a pull on a pre-placed toothpick plucks a serving.

Min has been preparing sushi for more than 18 years, 16 of which were at Lincoln Park's Sai Cafe. And though the sushi, sashimi and maki roll selections shine, there are some exquisite entrees as well, most notably the suki yaki (thinly sliced beef/vegetables in sweetened soy sauce) and yose nabe (seafood and vegetable medley). But before you did in, do start with a Power Ball appetizer: fried cream cheese mixed with crabstick and scallions...it's about as close as you can get to the flaming saganaki.

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul