Don't enter this cheerful, spacious eatery expecting an extensive menu. Owner Jaime Flores had a very specific goal in mind when launching his latest venture: to fill the gullets of people seeking tasty tamales.

Created from a homemade recipe, Flores' tamales ($1.95-$2.20) are made fresh daily, stuffed with hunks of pork or chicken, and double-wrapped in thick cornhusks to retain their heat and flavor. Vegetarians may choose between the bean or cheese varieties, and sweet tamales with bits of coconut and pineapple make a great dessert. These corn-meal creations are extremely inexpensive, and there's an even greater discount if you buy in bulk.

Whether you enjoy your tamales with some chips at one of many blue marble-topped tables or opt for takeout, you'll find them to be addictively satisfying. Art lovers will appreciate Flores' attempts at raising the visibility of local Mexican artists; his walls showcase new works every couple months.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jenny Seay