Like the W Hotels, Wave at the W Chicago Lake Shore tries hard to please, succeeds on some counts and fails at others. Fortunately, what Wave succeeds at is great food, compliments of Executive Chef Kristine Subido. What Wave doesn’t do well is provide seamless service. The staff tends towards fussy and anxious when relaxed and unobtrusive would do very well. It’s touching to see so much strain, but it takes away from the overall experience. And Wave clearly intends for its patrons to have a memorable experience.

It provides not just tasty fare, but also a stunning visual environment with water and windows galore, and long couches that will make you want to stay forever, even if they are a bit difficult to climb into and out of. As far as the meal goes, order appetizers to share, since each plate is so different that everyone at your table will want a bite of everything. The starter called “Waves” will probably please the most crowds: it’s hummus, grilled eggplant puree, and caviar creme fraiche served with warm pita. You won’t go wrong with the spice-roasted mussels, sizzling clams, or rare tuna kabob, but don’t shunt aside the steak and poultry options too quickly. They’re definitely done up with Mediterranean flair; you’ve never had New York strip or marinated lamb like you’ll have it here. Portions are reasonable enough as to leave you room to consider dessert, so strongly consider the Turkish Coffee-Chocolate Cheesecake.