You might expect Otom chef Daryl Nash, a former sous chef at
Moto, Otom's sister restaurant, to break out the lasers and liquid nitrogen as he did in Homaro Cantu's culinary laboratory. But he exercises restraint, only occasionally injecting his tried-and-true, seasonally focused comfort foods with a twist. Crispy wontons stand in for corn tortillas in salmon ceviche; smoked oyster mushrooms channel the missing bacon in a veggie-based riff on wilted spinach salad; and he transforms a banana split into a kabobsicle of frozen banana puree, drizzled caramel and roasted pineapple.
Nash, who grew up on a central Illinois farm, is especially interested in the relationship between the garden and the table, and he hopes to introduce to his menus an old-school regimen of pickling, smoking, canning and curing as the seasons change.
What do you wish you could change or pickle and preserve about the Chicago food scene?
Chicago is rapidly becoming the epicenter for food innovation in the United States. At every young chef's disposal are the kitchens of some of the world's top thinkers in food. My hope is that we continue to reach beyond the plausible, grab and filter new ideas, and insist on exciting new ways to create.
What would your last meal be?
My absolute favorite late summer sandwich: heirloom tomato, butter lettuce and double smoked bacon BLT; lots of mayo, great crunchy bread and a ton of cracked black pepper, and fat, salty French fries and a really hoppy beer.
Where do you eat/drink before/after a shift?
Richard's Bar on Milwaukee and Grand has a great deal on beer, rowdy music and bunches of neighborhood locals. I meet friends after a shift to relax and for certainly the best hard-boiled egg in the city. It's only 75 cents!
What's the can't-miss dish at Otom?
Glazed pork belly, with coriander-red-beet puree, turnip and puffed barley hash. Simple and delicious, it'll warm you on these ever-cooling evenings.
What should we know about Otom that we probably don't?
A lot has been said about the "mirror image" connection between ourselves and our sister restaurant Moto. Otom is merely a "reflection" of what is going on next door. We provide the same top-notch service and tasty food, on a more accessible level. We complement each other.
Recipe: Glazed pork belly
During fall months, I find braised dishes the most comforting and filling. One can't miss with a braise. It's difficult to overcook, and, if you have the time, this dish will warm any evening.
Ingredients:
1-3 pounds piece skinless pork belly
1 large onion, diced
2 large carrots, diced
6 ribs celery, diced
1 head garlic, cleaned and trimmed
3 cups beef or veal stock
1 cup red wine
Half-cup tomato paste
20 black peppercorns
5 bay leaves
1 bunch thyme
Procedure:
1. Season pork belly with salt and pepper and allow it to rest for two hours.
2. In a hot braising pan, sear the pork on all sides, remove and reserve for later use. 3. To the brazier, add the onions, carrots, celery and whole garlic cloves. Caramelize the vegetables.
4. When browned and soft, add the tomato paste and red wine. Reduce the wine until almost dry.
5. Add the pork belly, peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme and the stock to the pot. Bring to a boil. Cover with a tight fitting lid and place into a 325-degree oven for about three hours.
6. Remove the pork belly, strain the liquid and reduce by one half. Use the reduced liquid as a glaze for the pork.
7. Serve with your favorite fall side dish. Potatoes are awesome!
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